Looking Up

24 Sunday Jul 2016

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A business trip to Illinois allowed for a day in Chicago today with my mother and a family friend. A girl’s play date, if you will. No agenda, no schedule (other than our train up and back)…just a day to enjoy each other’s company and see what fun we could have. The train was scheduled to leave at 6:35AM, so we were up bright and early before the sun. Rarely does Amtrak leave on time, but at least we had the text alert for the delayed departure at 7:30. It was about 7:45 or so when we actually boarded and pulled out. The sun was shining, and the “heat dome” was evident – hot and muggy start to the day.

I love riding on trains, not nearly as much as my mother does, but it’s a comfortable, easy way to travel. You get to see another part of towns that you don’t get by driving, and you don’t have to worry about who’s driving home at the end of a long day. If you’ve never ridden the train from east central Illinois to Chicago, I will admit there are parts that can become a bit boring or tedious – seemingly endless stretches of corn and soybeans. But keep your eyes open and you may just spot some interesting things…town water towers, and the reed/twig hut we spotted as we approached Chicago.

We disembarked in Union Station, found our way outside, and requested an Uber for a ride to State Street…completely walkable from where we were, but I haven’t been in downtown Chicago for over 10 years and jumped the gun. Oops! As our driver headed the most direct route to our destination, we found several streets barricaded and only foot traffic being allowed through. Turns out there was a parade down Dearborn Ave. Not a big one, but still interesting to watch for a brief bit.

We set a leisurely pace which allowed me to do one of my favorite things when in a large city…look up. We go through so many of our days focused on the destination and end result that we forget to slow down and look around. I love looking up when I’m in a city. Have you ever really noticed the carvings, scupltures and art work on the high rises above eye level? The reflections of one building in another? It brings a whole new perspective – literally!

My travel companions today both have birthdays in August, so today was an early birthday present for them. After a bit of walking and shopping, we headed to Eataly on Ohio St. Having just returned from a week in Italy, it was quite an experience. I would best describe it as every food shop and restaurant in a small Italian town placed in one building – wine, olive oil, pastas, cheese, meat, fish, gelato, pizza, cappucinos, housewares and bookstore all rolled into one cacophony of sights, sounds and smells. We managed to find a small table (near the wine bar, go figure!) where we parked Mom to hold our spot and watch our shopping bags while we grabbed a light snack and beverages. Proseco, rosé, parmesan cheese and salami. A perfect midday break.

After a nice rest, we headed out to Michigan Avenue for more sightseeing. We sat in the park near the Water Tower and enjoyed some very interesting people watching. Small children playing in the fountain, “free intelligent conversation” sign holders (we never did test how intelligent the conversation was), religious hawkers, tourists, wedding attendees, locals, the young man who used the horse watering trough to cool his head, and everything in between. Always great people watching in Chicago!

We headed back toward Union Station hoping for a last minute bite to eat before boarding the train. As luck would have it just about every place closed just as we arrived. We found some hummus, pretzel chips and bottled water at the “grab and go” and an empty table, and sat to replenish our energy stores. Soon it was time to head to the waiting lounge to board our train.

We had purchased a bottle of proseco at Eataly to enjoy on the way home, and happened to find small wine glasses in one store. A perfect end to a perfect day! Until the conductor advised we couldn’t drink alcoholic beverages not purchased onboard unless we had a sleeper compartment. We put away our beverages in the most appropriate way – through our mouths and into our stomachs. When he next came through the observation car we had only our snacks and a bottle of water in view. Our bon voyage party may have been short lived, but it was incredibly fun, and worth being scolded for! (Apologies for the blurry picture – it’s hard to take a good photo on a moving train.)

It was a great way to spend the day, and fun to be back in one of my favorite cities.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Amtrak, Chicago, Eataly, Proseco, Travel, Water Tower

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Home, Sweet Home

14 Thursday Jul 2016

It’s always bittersweet to come home after a wonderful trip, but I must say sleeping in our bed last night felt so good! We forced ourselves to go to bed at a relatively normal hour, and to sleep in until a normal hour. (I was ready to prowl the house at about 3:30AM, but I knew that would lead to a longer jetlag recovery.) Our purring fur-baby was very happy to see us, so much so that she sat outside our bedroom door and meowed until I finally let her in with us. (We don’t generally let the fur-babies in our bedroom, so this was a special treat for her!) We unpacked essentials last night, and my other half will attack the laundry over the next few days.

Some of the smaller details of our trip for those who may be looking to travel to Norway or Italy, or those who are just curious-minded like me.

We flew British Airways between the US and Oslo with a layover/transit in London’s Heathrow. Not the worst flights, but certainly not the best we’ve had either. (The best is still held by Singapore Airlines in my opinion.) BA has a new computer system that crashed multiple times on both of our main travel days. Customs & Immigration was a breeze in each country, and the airports were easy to navigate. Oslo and Heathrow both had plenty of assistants available to answer questions and point you in the right direction.

From Rome to Oslo we flew Norwegian Airlines. For the price ($327 total for two of us, including travel insurance), we got a brand new airplane (although the WiFi had not been hooked up yet). Flight crew was very friendly, but they charge for all beverages (250 NOK for a water) and you can only eat food purchased onboard. If it’s a short flight, I would definitely fly them again.

The first night in Oslo we stayed at CityBox Hotel. Reception and concierge were Ipads. Very hip and modern, and we didn’t have to worry about a late check-in! Room was clean and comfortable. There was a wonderful French cafe just off the lobby for breakfast. If you are traveling from the US to Europe, you need to quickly adjust to the size and room amenity differences. Closet space is small or non-existent throughout Europe, and only the hotels in Italy had a mini fridge. Granted, we stayed in moderately priced rooms at 3+ star hotels. 4-5 star hotels might be somewhat different – I prefer to spend my money on the daytime experiences, food and shopping. A hotel room to me is where I get my rest and freshen up each day, so I don’t require much in the way of amenities.

The hotel in Verona, Hotel Gardenia, was probably the worst experience of the trip. Fortunately it was only one night (technically about 5 hours)…the front desk clerk was essentially incompetent, and wanted to keep our documents (passports, etc) until morning. No, thank you! The ladies took the room keys and our luggage and set off to find our rooms and left the guys to wait for the documents. The clerk did not tell us which way to go to get to our room until we showed up again in the lobby to ask for directions. I did not go into the lobby in the morning, but I was told the desk clerk then was as rude as the evening one. A review was left on TripAdvisor, so at least others can be informed as well.

Our flat in Trequanda is available on VRBO (https://www.vrbo.com/440247). I cannot express in words how wonderful this little town is. The flat is situated conveniently to the square and parking area. (On street parking is very limited due to the narrow streets.) An early morning stroll for a cappucino and pastry in town, then off to explore the surrounding areas, of which there are many.

Tuscan towns are built on top of hills. We walked an average of 3 – 6 miles per day (at least according to my Samsung Gear Fit2). Comfortable, supportive walking shoes are a must, especially as most of the roads in town are all cobblestone. There are plenty of benches and places to sit throughout the towns if you need a rest. The shopping was wonderful, and a great selection of items. We generally browsed at the bottom of the hill and checked prices for items, then compared as we went up. If the shop at the bottom was still the best price, we made our purchases on our way back to the car rather than carrying bags with us the entire day. If you travel to Italy in the summer, bring a fan – it is hot and humid, and very few places are air conditioned. There was a wonderful breeze most days, but that alone will not keep you cool. I finally purchased a fan in Montepulciano, and was using it daily through the flight home yesterday.

Always throw a bathing suit in your luggage, even if you are positive you won’t need it. (That’s a reminder for me, mostly.) The Mediterranean coast of Italy is rocky and slippery, so beach/water shoes are recommended.

Rome really needs more than 2 days to see it properly. We did the quick tour because of time, but next trip will be a longer stay. Taxis are easily found and relatively inexpensive. (A 15 – 20 minute ride for 4-5 of us averaged €9 – €10.) Grab a street map from your hotel as Rome is not easy to navigate without one. We stayed at Grand Hotel Olympic near Vatican City. Donatella, the hotel manager, was wonderful. My other half taught her how to reset the WiFi when it became overloaded. It is an older hotel and showed signs of wear and tear. The shower was very small, as is the case with most European hotels, but this one seemed extra small. Breakfast was included, but the food was fair. One morning the cappucino machine was broken, the pastries did not seem particularly fresh, but there was a large selection of meat and cheese. I would have liked some fresh fruit as a option.

Our final nights in Oslo were at the Comfort Hotel Børsparken. A huge lobby area with tables and chairs, free coffee 24 hours/day, and a small selection of snacks and beverages for purchase by the front desk. There is apparently one of the largest and best gyms in the area on their lower level, but we didn’t check it out. Very conveniently located to the train station and a slightly longer walk to the waterfront and ferries. Ask ahead of checkout if there are tour groups staying at the hotel…we had to take the service elevator to get down to check out on our last day as the main elevator was consistently full. Turned out there were two tour buses checking out the same time we were.

Not sure when or where our next Big Adventure will be, but we will be checking out areas closer to home in the coming months. I do get a daytrip to Chicago with my mom in 10 days, so there may be a quick post then. Not sure what she has planned, other than a train ride up and back!

Until the next time…thanks for traveling with us! We hope you enjoyed our trip virtually as much as we did in reality.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Norway, Oslo, Roma, Rome, Travel, Trequanda, Tuscany, Vacation2016

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Last day of Big Adventure 2016

12 Tuesday Jul 2016

We arrived in Oslo last evening, successfully left 2 bags checked at the airport, and took the train into town. A quick walk from the Sentralstasjon to our hotel…maybe not as quick as it would have been under normal circumstances as my legs were still sore from the cupola climb and Roma expedition, but we made it! A very hip little place an easy walk to transportation and things we wanted to see.

Last night’s dinner was at Nilsen Spiseri, a small restaurant a block away from the hotel. It is right next door to a hostel, and our waiter has been working there for 6 months after a stay in the hostel. My other half opted for poached salmon, and I decided to go outside the comfort zone with reindeer stew. I must say I was a little nervous, but it was absolutely delicious!

We slept in a bit this morning (exhaustion had begun to hit us both), then ventured out about 11AM. My other half went to the tourist information center a block away and bought two Oslo Passes for us. Best purchase of the day as they allowed free admission to every place we visited and free rides on transportation (ferries and light rail). A quick walk to the waterfront, and we boarded a ferry to the Norsk Folkemuseum and Viking Ship Museum.

The Folkemuseum did not have a lot going on, but was still an interesting walk about. The Viking Ship Museum was great fun. Amazing that these actual vessels were found buried and intact. They’d actually been used as burial ships, a coffin of sorts. They’d been looted, so there was no jewelry or articles of value, but the items that did survive have some significant historical value!

From there it was a leisurely walk to the Fram Museum. The Fram was the first wooden sailing vessel to explore both the North and South Poles. It is fully preserved, and you can go aboard. Very interesting to read about the expeditions and science experiments carried out on each voyage.

A ferry ride across the fjord back to Oslo, and we decided it was lunchtime. A stroll down the pier reading every menu, and we opted for Louise’s. Tasty mussels steamed in white wine with lemon and seasoning for me, and fish and chips for the Mister. His fish was more along the lines of Sri Lankan fish cutlets and not the British fish and chips he expected. But we will have a layover in London tomorrow, so we can make up for it there. Not that he minded fish cutlets at all – they are one of his favorite foods! A small rain shower as we finished lunch, and a light drizzle while we ate our Swiss ice cream cones on our way to the Nobel Peace Center.

Nobel Peace Center had wonderful exhibits. It was very moving, and photos were an afterthought. The current exhibit was about the 1936 Nobel Peace Prize awarded to Carl Von Ossietzky. Upstairs were more exhibits, and a large section on the Syrian refugee crisis from the perspective of Syrian children. Hard to read their words without getting a lump in the throat. As you go back down to the main level, children (and adults, too, I suppose) are encouraged to post a “thought bubble” about peace.

Next stop, Vigeland Park. Too far away to walk, especially with dark clouds gathering on the horizon. We pulled up Google maps, figured out where to catch the light rail, and off we went. My father was in Oslo in 1956 or 1957, and I was in search of the fountain from one of his photos. We thought this might be the one. I’m not quite sure and will need to look at his photo when I get home. Either way, it was an easy trip, and worth the train ride. The park has over 200 bronze and granite scuptures by Gustav Vigeland. A tremendous rose garden surrounded the center fountain, leading the way to the monolith. The monolith is 121 figures trying to reach the top of the structure.

A quick train ride back to the hotel, and we have essentially brought 2016 Big Adventure to an end. Off to find our last dinner in Oslo for this trip. Tomorrow we return home, and try to wrap our heads around everything we’ve seen and done!

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Fram, Nobel Peace Center, Norway, Oslo, Travel, Vacation2016, Viking Museum

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Rome wasn’t built in a day

11 Monday Jul 2016

And we had the tour to confirm it! A full day exploring all the other “must see” places in Rome – piazas, the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, the Coliseum, and Basilica di San Clementi. The climb up to the cupola the prior day had my legs feeling like jelly for the better part of the day, so it was a slow and steady pace for us. I considered calling it quits once or twice during the day, but I couldn’t bring myself to do it.

We started at Campo di Fiori where there was an open air market. A fresh fruit cup from a vendor, and it was time to hit the cobblestones.

It seemed every few streets we’d stumble onto another piaza, each with its own feel.

From there we found the Pantheon. Seemed like it was dropped in the middle of the city. There was a long line to get in, but as admission was free it moved rather quickly. 2 Roman “soldiers” were outside the exit posing for photos.

The next piaza had a rather non-descript church from the outside. My other half and I waited outside while the others ventured in to explore. What could top St. Peter’s and the Sistine Chapel? Based on their encouragement, we went in for a tour…and very glad we did! Gregorian chant being played quietly through the speakers seemed to have a magical effect on all visitors – the level of respect and quiet was considerably higher than the day before. I wonder what effect piping music into the Basilica and Sistine Chapel would do? Might bring down the amount of “shushing” and overall chatter. But, it might not with the tour guides trying to hold their group together and impart information. It makes me wonder, though.

This is the ceiling in the nave!

From there we wound our way through side streets and main streets and found ourselves standing at the Trevi Fountain. As disappointed as I was with Michaelangelo’s Creation, I was very pleasantly surprised with this site. So much bigger than I’d expected. It has been under renovation for the past few years, so this was the first time our hosts had seen it in full splendor, too.

Lunch was at a small pizzeria around the corner, and very good. We rested, chatted and enjoyed the air conditioning as long as possible. We then hit the streets to the ancient part of the city…the Forum of Trajan (112 – 113A.C.) and Forum of Augustus (2 B.C.)

It was rather surreal to think about standing on/near sites that were built centuries before the beginning of Christianity. There is a tremendous archeological effort underway to rebuild what areas they can from the original pieces. A short walk further, and we had to pinch ourselves to remember we weren’t on a movie set…

Well, maybe just a little bit of a set!

The final stop was Basilica di San Clemente. No photos are allowed, but it was by far one of the highlights. The current basilica was built just before 1100AD. It sits on a 4th century basilica which was previously the home of a Roman nobleman. In the 1st century the home had served as an early church. In the 2nd century, the basement was used as a mithraeum. The nobleman’s home has been built on the remains of a villa and warehouse which had been destroyed by fire in 64AD. We went all the way down into the catacombs and shook our heads in amazement. The frescoes that have survived all these years later brought goosebumps.

Dinner at a neighborhood restaurant outside the city center. Pasta and risotto primi courses, rabbit cacciatore and calamari spiedino for secondi. Neither of us could finish either of our courses – the portions were enormous! A final tiramisu and glass of grappa rounded off the meal.

Back to Piaza di Campo di Fiore to buy a small suitcase to get everything home, then back to the hotel to repack and get some sleep. We were headed back to Norway in the morning for the final days of our Big Adventure 2016.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Basilica San Clemente, Colliseum, Europe, Italy, Pantheon, Roma, Rome, Trevi Fountain, Vacation2016

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Once in a lifetime…Part 2

11 Monday Jul 2016

Our tickets for the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel were for 1:30PM admission. We arrived at the entrance just a bit late but had no issues being admitted. We managed to maneuver around the many tour groups queuing up and crowding the entrance hall, got our receipt for our audio guides, and headed upstairs. A quick lesson on how to use the audio guide, and we were off to explore.

You really need a week to see all the treasures at an appropriate pace. But as our ticket was good for one day only, we had to see everything we could in the limited time available. I’d say we did a pretty good job. We did double back a few hours into our exploration as empty bellies and thirst were getting the better of us. Fortunately the cafe near Pinecone Courtyard had one remaining vegetarian sandwich! That with a side of caprese and Italian beer, and we had the energy needed to complete our tour.

The Hall of Maps was breathtaking. The Sistine Chapel beautiful and awe-inspiring. I was somewhat disappointed in Michalangelo’s The Creation, if that’s even possible…having seen it in photos for so many years, it was much smaller than I expected. However, the fact that I was standing in the Sistine Chapel looking at it was pretty amazing in and of itself.

No photos were allowed in the Sistine Chapel, so we will continue to rely on the photos in books and online to remember that portion of our visit. From there we essentially skipped the Contemporary Art collection, stopped at the gift store on our way out, and headed back toward our hotel – exhausted with our brains on overload. We opted for a quick beverage to celebrate our anniversary in a small wine cafe just down the street from the hotel…a glass of proseco, a glass of chardonnay, and a cheese board made for a perfect end to the afternoon’s adverture.
Out of curiousity we checked some statistics for the Vatican Museum. It is the 5th most visited and 5th largest museum in the world. (The Louvre being #1 for visitors and the State Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia for size.)

We had dinner reservations at 9:30PM. We all met at the rooftop garden of our friends’ hotel on Piaza Campo di Fiori. We shared a bottle of proseco and a bottle of La Fornace brunello, and watched the sun set over St. Peter’s dome.

Dinner was at Roscioli Restuarant. We were seated in the basement amongst many, many bottles of wine. It was fun to read labels, and the wine list was like a phone book. If money had been no object, we might have splurged on the 1955 Brunello di Montalcino Reserva. Alas, none of really wanted to wash dishes for the next year to pay it off! A fantastic dinner – primi of pasta with fried pork cheek, secondi of tuna carpaccio. A primi of spinach and ricotta raviolis and secondi of lamb chops for my other half. We shared pistachio crême brulee for dessert, with a glass of syrah.

We left the restaurant about 12:30AM and caught cabs back to our hotel. As our brains and bellies were still on sensory overload from the day’s excursion and wonderful meal, we opted for a late night bottle of wine with our best man at a cafe right around the corner from the hotel. Sharing memories, people watching, and talking about life in general – I’d say the perfect way to spend your 11th anniversary!

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Travel, Vacation2016, Vatican

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Once in a lifetime…Part 1

11 Monday Jul 2016

(Saturday July 9, 2016) We set off this morning to the Vatican Museum and St. Peter’s Basilica. We had purchased tickets for the Vatican Museum the night before. After researching the private, semi-private and self-guided tours, we had opted for the self-guided tour of the Museum. The Basilica was free, but we decided to get the audio guide. For just a little bit more, we could also go all the way to the top of the cupola. Well, while in Rome…right?! We did the cupola first – a short elevator ride to the inside rim of the cupola and 360° views of the Basilica.

381 (give or take a few) stairs at the height of the day’s heat up to the very top…Half way up there was a sign letting us know how many stairs left in the climb. Not sure if it was encouraging or discouraging, but it was nice to know we’d at least gotten to the halfway point. The last bit was a very tiny spiral staircase with a rope as a handrail. Just a little nerve wracking! But, I can honestly say the panoramic view from the top was worth every step and more. Have to say it was surprising, and disappointing to see graffiti on the walls and columns at the top. I just don’t get why people feel the need to leave a permanent reminder of their visit like that. Take a picture…don’t destroy a historically significant building.

Coming down from the cupola you enter the Basilica on the right side of the Apse. The Basilica is enormous. I was hoping to see the sign showing where other major cathedrals of the world (St. Paul’s London, Notre Dame, etc) would fit inside, but with the vast number of people touring, I never did find it. I’m sure if I Google it I can find out…there is so much to see, and everywhere you turn is another painting or statue that draws you in. The ceiling was beautiful, and what I wouldn’t give to hear the organ being played! Next trip I think I will try to attend services in some of the churches we have visited. It was a bit difficult to take the time I really wanted to (or the time necessary) to see and experience everything. There were large tour groups (15 – 40 people per group), and with the guides all talking at once plus other visitors chatting made for a less than holy, shall we say, experience. Disappointing in some respects, but to have visited at all was a truly special treat.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Travel, Vacation2016, Vatican

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Arrivederci, Tuscany. Ciao, Roma!

11 Monday Jul 2016

(Friday July 8, 2016) A final cappuccino and carrot muffin at Giorgio’s cafe this morning, packed the car full, and headed southeast. We made a spur of the moment decision last night to travel the coastal road so we could stop along the Mediterranean for lunch. (My other half really enjoyed the wines of Tuscany, but the food not quite as much. Lots of beef (chianina, the white cow of Tuscany) and pork (salami, prosciutto, etc.) He did have lamb the first evening in Trequanda, other nights we found pastas with goose ragu, or salmon pizza. Yesterday I think left him a bit hungry. (I, on the other hand, did not have a problem finding suitable dishes to enjoy…a wonderful pici pasta with bacon, garlic and bread crumbs followed by chianina in peppercorns and seasonings – apparently a very old recipe handed down through the generations. And I can’t leave out dessert – fruita panna cotta. Delicioso!)

But back to today…we realized early on we were headed the wrong direction, made a quick adjustment, and first spied the ocean about 1:30PM. We stopped in the port city of Civitavecchia for lunch, and a quick swim for those who had planned for the unexpected. (Those of us who packed light did not fare as well…just another reason for a return trip!) It was rocky and slippery, but wonderfully warm from what I am told.

Address for the hotel plugged into the GPS, and we were on the final leg of the today’s journey to Rome by 4:15PM. We are at a hotel just outside Vatican City. We have had a few “ohh and ahh” moments since we arrived in town, with a lot of photos out the car window.

This evening we met up at a little wine bar, L’Angolo Divino near Piaza di Campo di Fiore. Wonderful bottle of sangiovese and snacks (burrata, olives, deviled eggs and lupini). Dinner was a quick walk away, also just off the Piaza. I didn’t make the dinner reservations, so I do nother recall the name of the restaurant. It was across the street from a fabric store that held my attention for a bit. The wheels were turning in my head, especially as I had had the inspiration for our kitchen just a few days earlier.

Our waiter, Rocco, was wonderful, and not only made wonderful recommendations for food and wine, he presented each of the ladies with a rose from the street vendor. We realized later he essentially chose our entire meal, but for dessert! And he picked quite well…sautéed Portofino mushrooms, lobster salad, rissotto, poached sea bass and poached red snapper. Lemoncella accompanied various desserts (tiramisu and panna cotta). All dishes were shared among the 6 of us, and we left full, happy, and just a little tired.

We have a lot to see in the next 2 days, starting with the Vatican and Sistine Chapel tomorrow.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Travel, Vacation2016

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Sienna

08 Friday Jul 2016

The day started early again today, but I opted to send Anil to get cappucino to go and bring back to the flat so I could finish yesterday’s post and have a fresh pear for breakfast. We were on the road relatively early with a quick stop in Podroia for terracotta. We stumbled onto the Terracotta Museo and saw some wonderful things. The museumitself seemed to be in the midst of a reconstruction, but two elderly gentleman were more than happy to give us a guided tour. One of them was the artisan of tiny replicas of area towns.

Next stop, Siena. Despite today’s heat, we did our biggest day of walking yet. We went to one of two Duomos, and ate lunch on the piazza where the Palio race is run every year. It was run on July 2nd this year, and you could still see remnants of the race throughout town.

Next stop, St. Catherine of Siena Cathedral. Stunning does not even begin to describe it. A wonderful precursor to the Vatican, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica.

Our final stop of the day was at the Monte Olivieto monastery. A Benedictine community of silence and prayer. We stayed for chanted Vespers…an experience of a lifetime! No photos taken inside – sanctity of the space and quickly draining camera battery.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Siena, Travel, Tuscany, Vacation2016

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Montalcino and brunello wines

07 Thursday Jul 2016

We surprised our fellow travelers (and ourselves) by being the first to the cafe this morning for breakfast. I guess there’s no middle ground with us? It’s all or nothing?! The 2nd floor of the building in this picture has been home since Monday.

Our first stop of the day was Banfi Vineyards outside of Montelcino. A bit of a delay on our way due to a traffic accident. Curvy, hilly roads and large trucks and vans coming in opposite directions can make for a very tight squeeze. But we arrived safe and sound and not much later than our reservation time. We started with champagne in the tasting room while we waited for our table to be ready. Fantastic champagne – especially if my other half says he enjoys it, because bubbly is not his thing at all. It was truly a million tiny bubbles dancing on your tongue with a dry, yet not too dry, finish. Our favorite wine app confirmed we can get it in the US. A good start to the day!
We were seated for our tasting and served a selection of cheeses and salami. We opted for the bottle tasting rather than the flight tastings. One bottle would give each of us enough of a taste, and we could revisit it until the bottle was empty. Much more efficient and less expensive than the flight of 3 seletions. We learned a lot about the brunello varietal, the wine produced in this area. 100% sangiovese grapes, but the fermenting and aging process are what make it a brunello. (Lots of time macerating with the skins, and an extended aging period both in large barrels and in the bottle.)

Our tasting was followed by a self-guided tour of the glass museum. The have containers and decanters dating back to BC times up to modern day. Even a Picasso designed decanter! Very interesting to see how glass has evolved over the centuries. As we were leaving we met a couple who live not far from us in the States and who had a connection to the other couples in our group. Quite a serendipitous meeting, and we have exchanged contact info so we can get together when we return home.

Stunning views and glorious gardens around the tasting room…

Our next stop was La Fornace Vineyards. We thought initially we had pulled into the wrong place as it was clearly a family home, not an obvious tasting room. Favio, the winemaker, vineyard manager, tasting room manager and sales manager (a/k/a owner) came to meet us after his mother had shown us to the back of the house overlooking the vineyards. While we waited we got to play with Peppa, their 3 month old Jack Russell Terrier. Highly entertaining! We learned a great deal from Favio, and it was easy to see his passion. His grandfather started the winery in the mid 80’s, and then his father ran it, now him. A wonderful time, and one of the best winery visits we’ve experienced in quite some time.

We got to meet the young boy in the above photo – Flavio’s father.

Next stop, Montalcino. Most of the shops seemed to be closing early, but we did find a trinket or two (small bottles of Vin Santo count as trinkets, right?!?) Dinner was at a local restaurant, and we each had a primi and secondi dish. Pasta e fagioli, ribolatto, pici with duck ragu, ravioli, carpacio and a few salads rounded out the meal. Of course a bottle of brunello wine to accompany our repast.

An early night tonight as we will be on the road early tomorrow for a stop in Pedroia at the terra cotta factory/store then on to Sienna for exploring and shopping. Rome on Friday!

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Brunello, Europe, Italy, Montalcino, Travel, Tuscany, wine

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Pienza and Montepulciano

06 Wednesday Jul 2016

We had a fabulous meal Monday night after wine tasting at a local vineyard. Came home and sat on the balcony, enjoyed some Vin Santo and gazed at the millions of stars visible in the sky. Slept like a baby until about 6:45AM when it began to feel stuffy in the room. Turns out my other half had stopped the oscillation of the fan at some point in the middle of the night and had it blowing only on him. I quickly corrected that and fell back asleep nicely. We walked back to the plaza for coffee and a bite to eat before heading to Pienza and Montepulciano.

Yesterday we explored 2 local towns, Pienza and Montepulciano. Pienza is most known for pecorino cheese. The town itself is ancient and charming. We walked up the hills to the palazzo where the main church, palace and city hall were located. All of the books I have read about renaissance Italy came back in bits and pieces. The town was rebuilt in 1459, and Pope Pius II consecrated the Duomo (cathedral)in 1462. There were lots of wonderful little shops all along the way up to the palazzo. And I got the inspiration I needed for our kitchen that will not require repainting…new dishes, yes, but no paint!

After exploring the area for several hours we stopped at a deli for sandwiches, marinated olives and artichokes, and a bottle of wine for a picnic lunch on the grounds of an 11th century church.

All the churches are open to the public, and while there are some similarities, each one has its own individuality. The antiquity of the paintings, stained glass, frescoes and building in general…to walk down aisles where generation upon generation have worshipped was breathtaking and awe inspiring.

From there we headed to Montepuliciano. Pienza was rolling hills compared to the steep climbs to the center of Montepulciano!

Montepulciano sits on a 1,985 foot limestone ridge, and as was typical of the area, the palazzo is at the top of the town. It was a slow and steady walk! Felt very much the tourist as I took pictures of the little streets and doorways. Each one seemed better than the last. We got to see artisans at work – making mosaics, and the coppersmith shop. We passed many wine stores along the way, but resisted the temptation to go in and taste. While Montepulciano produces quite a bit of food, it is most known for the vino nobile grape, not the montepulciano grape.We did sit and enjoy a glass when we reached the top and had finished exploring the palazzo. We got some gifts on the way down which helped to break up the walk. My only regret is I hadn’t turned on my pedometer, so we don’t have a fully accurate count of steps and flights of stairs. My legs say it was a LOT.