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Category Archives: Vacation 2019

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A Little Fall of Rain…

28 Monday Jan 2019

…can hardly hurt us now. Unless it puts a damper on the entire day! Today dawned overcast and drizzly. On our way to breakfast a few blocks away it changed from a mist to a downpour. We didn’t let that stop us from enjoying Chocobar for breafast. Daughter tried the Grilled Cheese and Chocolate sandwich, and allowed me a bite. I am a fan! We made a few purchases which she ran to the flat while I waited for the car. We set off for Playa Mar Chiquita beach hoping to spend some time in the sand, sun and surf. There was a small craft adivisory in effect, and the rain never really let up. We did walk the beach collecting beach glass and shells, and enjoyed watching the waves roll in.

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It was a little too overcast and rainy to really enjoy the beach, and both port-a-potties (our last choice for a restroom, but it will do when desperate!) were locked. The next logical option seemed to us to be be the Bacardi Factory. Neither of us really wanted to spend the money to do the actual tour, but we did opt for the welcome cocktail. It was fun, but a lot of folks seemed to have the same idea.

We headed back to the flat in what looked to be clearing weather. A snooze (afternoon naps should be manadtory work breaks in my opinion), a shower and we were ready for dinner. Tonight’s restaurant, El Jibarito, was literally around the corner. We shared an entree of chicken in garlic sauce, and she had beans and rice while I indulged in mofongo de yuca – basically deep fried cassaba. It was delicious!

We ended the evening listening to live music just down the street, and across the street when we got home. Neither of us said a lot tonight…I think we are lost in our own thoughts and trying not to leave too much of our hearts here in Puerto Rico. That last part is nearly impossible.

I did have to chuckle tonight as the two ‘mainlanders’ thought 72 degrees was chilly, and one of us actually wrapped herself in the blanket before coming outside. I don’t know how we’ll get through the rest of winter, but now that I know summer exists somewhere before it hits Georgia, I think I can survive.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Bacardi Factory, beach, Chocobar Cafe, Exploring, ocean, Old San Juan, Playa Mar Chiquita, Puerto Rico, Vacation 2019

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Exploring Old San Juan

26 Saturday Jan 2019

When you wake up and the first thing you see outside the bedroom window is a rainbow, you just know it’s going to be a great day.

We had no agenda for the day, so we woke up leisurely and headed to breakfast at the cafe on the corner. Literally less than 100 steps from our door. Delicious latte and omelette for me, and coffee and breakfast sandwich for the young one. You really couldn’t beat the view – until it started to sprinkle!

From there we set out to explore the entire city. We started at Fort Cristobal, then walked to the Castillo San Felipe del Morro San Juan. Daughter indulged my fascination with cemeteries and let me explore Cemeterio Sant Maria Magdalena De Pazzis. We spoke with a groundskeeper at the cemetery as we were leaving. He gave us a brief history and explained the city government no longer paid for upkeep of the cemetery, only cutting the grass. They used to get funding from some U.S. organization or grant, but the “money was hidden” and never used as intended. What I originally thought was hurricane damage was a fair amount of vandalism due to a lack of security in the cemetery after dark.

Behind the arches is the columbarium. There were several niches open. I’m not sure if it was storm related damage or not.

From here we headed more towards the center of town beginning with Casa Blanca. This was the original Governor’s mansion for Ponce De Leon. Past US Presidents have stayed here when visiting Puerto Rico. It was closed for lunch/siesta time when we arrived, so we didn’t get to see inside.

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant tucked back and away from the beaten path. We finally got our mofongo!

We stimulated the economy as best we could while being mindful of the weight of our suitcases to get home. Once we were sure the cruise ship passengers had left port, we headed to the Paseo de Sombrillas. An incredible sight!

We rested a bit (it may have involved an adult beverage) before heading back to the four flights of stairs to our flat. Dinner was take-out from a restaurant at the end of the street. Too much food, but such fun to sample it all. We were enjoying a bottle of wine on our patio when we were treated to a fireworks display. Not sure what the occasion was, but we were happy to participate and enjoyed the show!

We went to bed trying very hard to figure out how we could extend our stay, and how to squeeze as much as possible into our last day.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Mofongo, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, rainbows, Travel, Vacation 2019

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We were in Old San Juan…and the room where it happened

25 Friday Jan 2019

Wednesday dawned somewhat overcast, but it didn’t dampen our spirit or sense of adventure. We checked out of the hotel, loaded the bags in the car, then did a short walk for coffee. The hotel had recommended Pinkies, a cafe and coffee shop a few blocks away. We got almost to it, turned around thinking we’d missed it, asked a local for directions, and finally found it. A very cool, hip place with limited seating (maybe 10 or 12 people, tops?). The menu looked good, but Daughter had somewhere else in mind for breakfast.

Once back to the car and on our way, we attempted to locate the box office to pick up our tickets to the evening’s show. We didn’t realize there was a matinee performance, so traffic was horrible (easy compared to Atlanta, but still bad for the area!) We elected to bypass picking up our tickets until later in the day, and we set off for Musa for brunch. I had an omelette stuffed with meat and cheese, and Daughter had Tres Leches French toast. Neither of us finished our meal. Delicious, but definitely more than we could eat!

After brunch we headed to Old San Juan which we will call home for the next three nights. We had a few hours to kill before we could check into our AirBnB. We drove around a bit, somewhat on purpose, somewhat trying to find a place to park close to our intended location. The streets are one way with parking one side of the road. We were headed down one street and came upon a cargo van which was blocking a portion of the driving lane. Knowing I couldn’t possibly pass the van, I attempted to back up from whence I’d come to the cross street and turn down a different street. I backed up far enough to realize the cross street was one-way that dead-ended into the street we were on. There was no way to go but forward, and I now had another car coming up behind me. The voice in the passenger seat advised I would need to ‘jump the curb’ and keep going. Uh, we’re in a compact car and you want me to do what? Needless to say, I jumped my first curb, managed to get around the van without damage to anything moving or stationary, and we found a place to park.

We set off on a path to who knows where, and explored a portion of Old San Juan until it was time to check in to our flat. There are a lot of statues throughout Old San Juan which make exploring that much more fun.

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We never saw a sign describing this art installation. Wish I knew what it was intended to depict.

One of many statues throughout Old San Juan

If I could get these home, I’m sure ‘El Gato’ chairs would be a perfect addition to our deck.

After exploring Paseo De La Princessa and the surrounding area (perhaps including a refreshing beverage), we started walking back toward the center of town. We walked through the cathedral where Ponce De Leon is buried and explored many of the streets.

This brought back many memories of La Posada at St Stephen’s in San Jose

We got the OK to check in about 2PM, and shortly after made our way up to our 4th floor flat. I was grateful the stairs were what I consider “European flights” where you have 6 or 7 stairs that make a U -turn so it doesn’t quite feel like a full flight of 12 or 13 stairs. We defintely enjoyed the view from our rooftop patio!

As much as we tried to rest a bit and unwind before getting ready, excitement was building. The reason we came to Puerto Rico was a few hours away. We Uber’d to the theater, picked up our tickets and took a short walk to Lote 23. The fun think about letting the younger generation pick locations for food is you try places you would likely never go on your own. I enjoyed an incredible poke bowl made to order, and Daughter had a ‘pastelillo con carne y alcapurria con jueyes’ (per her Instagram account.) She shared a bite, and it was delicious! Lote 23 is a bit like a food truck gathering spot, but all of the kitchens are permanent. The choices were varied and multiple, and it was a fun spot to people watch. My pashmina provided adequate cover mid-meal as a rain shower blew over.

A short walk back to the theater, a shorter wait in line, and we were soon “in the room where it happened.” The show was more relaxed than what we’d seen in San Francisco. There was more ‘give and take’ between the characters, and the rap/hip-hop sections were more spoken than the rapid fire we were used to. Potentially due to the number of non-English speakers in the audience? It didn’t matter to us, the subtle and not so subtle differences were noted and greatly appreciated. And kudos and God bless Lin Manuel-Miranda for doing every performance. He’d performed a matinee earlier in the day. I don’t know how he managed to do a second show (although we are very glad he did!) His stamina was amazing, and the audience clearly appreciated it. As the spotlight hit him on his stage entrance, there was a spontaneous standing ovation for about 30 seconds. The cast has gotten to know where the applause will be longer than usual, and they held poses and notes as needed. I wondered several times if the applause and admiration from the audience ever gets old. It sure didn’t feel like it did. We got home and were really unable to speak as our brains and hearts attempted to process the evening. In days, weeks, and months to come we’ll likely find more words.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Hamilton, Lin Manuel Miranda, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, Travel, Vacation 2019

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Island Fever, Puerto Rican style

23 Wednesday Jan 2019

In July 2017, my daughter and I saw the musical Hamilton in San Francisco. I am confident in saying we both know 90% of the soundtrack by heart (she’s probably at 100%, but with my less than stellar rap skills we average about 90%.) When they announced in early 2018 the show would be produced in Puerto Rico, we didn’t hesitate to start making plans – whether we got tickets to the show or not.

We (well, mostly daughter) found a hotel and AirBnB in San Juan, and we finalized our dates. On November 10th we (mostly me) got 2 tickets to #HamPR. Vacation was officially a dream come true trip.

We left Atlanta, GA in a balmy 24 degrees fahrenheit. Because of the US government shut down, we were at the airport a good 3 hours before our flight. A huge shout out to the TSA agents who were friendly and polite despite not receiving a paycheck. We breezed through security and managed to kill the 2 hours we had left. Once onboard, we learned the flight was nowhere near full. I jumped back a row to give us each a full row (3 seats) to stretch out and snooze.

A rainbow when landing seems like a good omen to me!

We landed in San Juan early, and caught the shuttle to pick up our rental car. (The major US rental companies are onsite the airport. We rented through a European company which was a short 5 minute ride away.)

Suitcases loaded into the trunk, GPS set to the hotel, and we were on our way. We soon learned the “rules of the road” in Puerto Rico seem to be “there are no rules.” Fortunately (depending on how you look at it), daughter opted not to be a driver, so it is all up to me. I live and drive in Atlanta – I am good with ‘no rules’ rules!

Our first two nights are at Acacia Boutique Hotel in the Condado area of San Juan. There is on street parking only, which was difficult when we arrived. We opted to drop daughter and bags off to check in while I searched for a nearby parking space. When that failed, we headed to the DoubleTree Hotel parking garage, maybe a half mile walk or so from our hotel. We opted to find a spot for dinner directly from there as we’d had very little in the way of food for the day. We started at Cocino Abierta where we shared tuna tataki, ceviche and emanadillas. This took the edge off the impending ‘hangry’ and was quite delicious.

My internal GPS led us back to the car where we gathered our remaining items, verified the car was good for overnight parking, and walked back to the hotel. It was still too early to call it a night, so we opted to check out another area near the hotel. We had no location in mind, and were happy to stumble on Tresbe, a fun, hip location. A few mojitos, empanadillas and fried plantains, and we were full, relaxed, and ready for bed…but not before a quick dip in the heated pool literally outside our room.

Tuesday morning dawned early as we had reservations on East Island Excursions for a catamaran tour to Culebra. We stopped at the sister boutique hotel for coffee, grabbed the car and headed out for our roughly hour drive to Fajardo. We were among the first to arrive, and enjoyed people watching for the next hour or so. The ride out to Culebra took about 50 minutes, and was rather choppy. We stopped first near a large reef and snorkeled for about 30 minutes before heading back on board to stake a claim on the roof area. Lots of yellow tail snapper, coral and several other species of tropical fish. It felt like we were swimming in am extra large fish tank. Unfortunately I forgot the underwater camera cover, so we only have our memories.

Once lunch and adult beverages were complete, we took a short 20 minute ride or so to Flamenco Beach where we had about an hour to enjoy one of the top 10 beaches in the world. Daughter swam the wetbag overhead from the boat to the shore (and back!) I did offer to carry it as long as my feet could touch the bottom!

The heart shaped cloud on the return to Fajardo seemed appropriate as I believe a piece of mine remained on Culebra.

A parking spot directly in front of the hotel was open when we returned, a good omen after a wonderful day! We took a quick stroll to the beach and watched the wind surfers and beach volleyball game before heading back to the hotel for a quick dip in the pool.

Dinner was at Jose Enrique’s restaurant. He was the chef with Jose Andreas who fed Puerto Ricans in the aftermath of Hurricane Maria. To say the food was incredible would be an understatement. Words really cant describe the flavors.

The menu is on white boards as it changes daily, and is updated as items run out during dinner. There were so many things we wanted to try!

We wandered the square a bit after dinner. Lots of music streaming from restaurants and bars, and locals out enjoying the cool breeze, some rum, cigars and conversation. We had a fun conversation with an older gentleman on the square. He probably had had a few, but he was sweet, enjoyed telling us about Peru (where he was born) and his international travels, and he complimented the young one on her Spanish.

We opted for an Uber back, another dip in the pool, and it was lights out!

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Candado, Culebra, Fajardo, Jose Enrique, Puerto Rico, Santorce, Vacation 2019

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Recent Posts

  • 2020…the Year of Limited Adventure
  • A Little Fall of Rain…
  • Exploring Old San Juan
  • We were in Old San Juan…and the room where it happened
  • Island Fever, Puerto Rican style

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Recent Posts

  • 2020…the Year of Limited Adventure
  • A Little Fall of Rain…
  • Exploring Old San Juan
  • We were in Old San Juan…and the room where it happened
  • Island Fever, Puerto Rican style

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  • Italy
  • J Bookwalter Winery
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  • Kahuku shrimp
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  • Kalua pork
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  • Keuka Lake
  • Kiowa
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  • Kualoa Ranch
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  • Lake Superior
  • Lake Washington
  • Lakes
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  • Lava
  • Lawrence Beer Co
  • Lawrence, KS
  • Lin Manuel Miranda
  • living history
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  • Mableton
  • macadamias
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  • Maine Beer Co
  • malasadas
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  • Montalcino
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  • Paradise Helicopters
  • Parker Carousel
  • Pau Bunyan Logging Camp and Museum
  • Paul Bunyan
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  • Pele
  • Pennsylvania
  • Petrified Ginko Forest
  • Pienza
  • Pike Brewing Co
  • Pike's Market
  • pineapple
  • Playa Mar Chiquita
  • poke
  • Polynesian
  • Polynesian Cultural Center
  • Potash
  • Presidential Range
  • Proseco
  • Puerto Rico
  • Punchbowl
  • PuPus
  • Purple Cafe
  • Queen Elizabeth II Park
  • Rabbit Ears Pass
  • Rabbit Island
  • Rainbow Falls
  • rainbows
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  • sunset
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