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Once in a lifetime…Part 1

11 Monday Jul 2016

(Saturday July 9, 2016) We set off this morning to the Vatican Museum and St. Peter’s Basilica. We had purchased tickets for the Vatican  Museum the night before.  After researching the private, semi-private and self-guided tours, we had opted for the self-guided tour of the Museum. The Basilica was free, but we decided to get the audio guide. For just a little bit more, we could also go all the way to the top of the cupola. Well, while in Rome…right?! We did the cupola first – a short elevator ride to the inside rim of the cupola and 360° views of the Basilica.  

381 (give or take a few) stairs at the height of the day’s heat up to the very top…Half way up there was a sign letting us know how many stairs left in the climb. Not sure if it was encouraging or discouraging, but it was nice to know we’d at least gotten to the halfway point. The last bit was a very tiny spiral staircase with a rope as a handrail.  Just a little nerve wracking! But, I can honestly say the panoramic view from the top was worth every step and more.  Have to say it was surprising, and disappointing to see graffiti on the walls and columns at the top. I just don’t get why people feel the need to leave a permanent reminder of their visit like that.  Take a picture…don’t destroy a historically significant building.  

Coming down from the cupola you enter the Basilica on the right side of the Apse. The Basilica is enormous. I was hoping to see the sign showing where other major cathedrals of the world (St. Paul’s London, Notre Dame, etc) would fit inside, but with the vast number of people touring, I never did find it.  I’m sure if I Google it I can find out…there is so much to see, and everywhere you turn is another painting or statue that draws you in.  The ceiling was beautiful, and what I wouldn’t give to hear the organ being played! Next trip I think I will try to attend services in some of the churches we have visited.  It was a bit difficult to take the time I really wanted to (or the time necessary) to see and experience everything. There were large tour groups (15 – 40 people per group), and with the guides all talking at once plus other visitors chatting made for a less than holy, shall we say, experience. Disappointing in some respects, but to have visited at all was a truly special treat.


  

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Travel, Vacation2016, Vatican

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Arrivederci, Tuscany. Ciao, Roma!

11 Monday Jul 2016

(Friday July 8, 2016)  A final cappuccino and carrot muffin at Giorgio’s cafe this morning, packed the car full, and headed southeast. We made a spur of the moment decision last night to travel the coastal road so we could stop along the Mediterranean for lunch. (My other half really enjoyed the wines of Tuscany, but the food not quite as much. Lots of beef (chianina, the white cow of Tuscany) and pork (salami, prosciutto, etc.) He did have lamb the first evening in Trequanda, other nights we found pastas with goose ragu, or salmon pizza. Yesterday I think left him a bit hungry. (I, on the other hand, did not have a problem finding suitable dishes to enjoy…a wonderful pici pasta with bacon, garlic and bread crumbs followed by chianina in peppercorns and seasonings – apparently a very old recipe handed down through the generations. And I can’t leave out dessert – fruita panna cotta. Delicioso!)

But back to today…we realized early on we were headed the wrong direction, made a quick adjustment, and first spied the ocean about 1:30PM. We stopped in the port city of Civitavecchia for lunch, and a quick swim for those who had planned for the unexpected. (Those of us who packed light did not fare as well…just another reason for a return trip!) It was rocky and slippery, but wonderfully warm from what I am told.

Address for the hotel plugged into the GPS, and we were on the final leg of the today’s journey to Rome by 4:15PM. We are at a hotel just outside Vatican City. We have had a few “ohh and ahh” moments since we arrived in town, with a lot of photos out the car window. 

This evening we met up at a little wine bar, L’Angolo Divino near Piaza di Campo  di Fiore. Wonderful bottle of sangiovese and snacks (burrata, olives, deviled eggs and lupini). Dinner was a quick walk away, also just off the Piaza. I didn’t make the dinner reservations, so I do nother recall the name of the restaurant. It was across the street from a fabric store that held my attention for a bit. The wheels were turning in my head, especially as I had had the inspiration for our kitchen just a few days earlier.  

Our waiter, Rocco, was wonderful, and not only made wonderful recommendations for food and wine, he presented each of the ladies with a rose from the street vendor. We realized later he essentially chose our entire meal, but for dessert! And he picked quite well…sautéed Portofino mushrooms, lobster salad, rissotto, poached sea bass and poached red snapper. Lemoncella accompanied various desserts (tiramisu and panna cotta). All dishes were shared among the 6 of us, and we left full, happy, and just a little tired.

We have a lot to see in the next 2 days, starting with the Vatican and Sistine Chapel tomorrow.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Travel, Vacation2016

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Sienna

08 Friday Jul 2016

The day started early again today, but I opted to send Anil to get cappucino to go and bring back to the flat so I could finish yesterday’s post and have a fresh pear for breakfast.  We were on the road relatively early with a quick stop in Podroia for terracotta. We stumbled onto the Terracotta Museo and saw some wonderful things. The museumitself seemed to be in the midst of a reconstruction, but two elderly gentleman were more than happy to give us a guided tour.  One of them  was the artisan of tiny replicas of area towns.

Next stop, Siena. Despite today’s heat, we did our biggest day of walking yet.  We went to one of two Duomos, and ate lunch on the piazza where the Palio race is run every year.  It was run on July 2nd this year, and you could still see remnants of the race throughout town. 

Next stop, St. Catherine of Siena Cathedral. Stunning does not even begin to describe it. A wonderful precursor to the Vatican, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. 

Our final stop of the day was at the Monte Olivieto monastery. A Benedictine community of silence and prayer. We stayed for chanted Vespers…an experience of a lifetime! No photos taken inside – sanctity of the space and quickly draining camera battery.

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Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Siena, Travel, Tuscany, Vacation2016

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Pienza and Montepulciano

06 Wednesday Jul 2016

We had a fabulous meal Monday night after wine tasting at a local vineyard. Came home and sat on the balcony, enjoyed some Vin Santo and gazed at the millions of stars visible in the sky.  Slept like a baby until about 6:45AM when it began to feel stuffy in the room.  Turns out my other half had stopped the oscillation of the fan at some point in the middle of the night and had it blowing only on him.  I quickly corrected that and fell back asleep nicely.  We walked back to the plaza for coffee and a bite to eat before heading to Pienza and Montepulciano.

Yesterday we explored 2 local towns, Pienza and Montepulciano.  Pienza is most known for pecorino cheese. The town itself is ancient and charming.  We walked up the hills to the palazzo where the main church, palace and city hall were located.  All of the books I have read about renaissance Italy came back in bits and pieces. The town was rebuilt in 1459, and Pope Pius II consecrated the Duomo (cathedral)in 1462.  There were lots of wonderful little shops all along the way up to the palazzo. And I got the inspiration I needed for our kitchen that will not require repainting…new dishes, yes, but no paint!

After exploring the area for several hours we stopped at a deli for sandwiches, marinated olives and artichokes, and a bottle of wine for a picnic lunch on the grounds of an 11th century church.

All the churches are open to the public, and while there are some similarities, each one has its own individuality. The antiquity of the paintings, stained glass, frescoes and building in general…to walk down aisles where generation upon generation have worshipped was breathtaking and awe inspiring. 

From there we headed to Montepuliciano.  Pienza was rolling hills compared to the steep climbs to the center of Montepulciano!

Montepulciano sits on a 1,985 foot limestone ridge, and as was typical of the area, the palazzo is at the top of the town. It was a slow and steady walk! Felt very much the tourist as I took pictures of the little streets and doorways. Each one seemed better than the last. We got to see artisans at work – making mosaics, and the coppersmith shop. We passed many wine stores along the way, but resisted the temptation to go in and taste. While Montepulciano produces quite a bit of food, it is most known for the vino nobile grape, not the montepulciano grape.We did sit and enjoy a glass when we reached the top and had finished exploring the palazzo.  We got some gifts on the way down which helped to break up the walk.  My only regret is I hadn’t turned on my pedometer, so we don’t have a fully accurate count of steps and flights of stairs.  My legs say it was a LOT. 

Dinner was pizza and salad in town as we were all a bit too tired to think about a big meal.
Today is Montalcino – exploring and wine tasting!

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Montepulciano, Pienza, Travel, Tuscany, Vacation2016

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I am in love…Sono innamorato

04 Monday Jul 2016

With Tuscany.  We have been here all of 3 hours.  I feel as if I have stepped into a picture postcard or movie set. Emotions are on the surface (those that know me well know I wear my heart on my sleeve anyway, and this is beyond any sleeve I could have at the moment.) We have eaten lunch at one of the local restaurants…fabulously fresh caprese salad, bruschette miste, and various entrees from pici al ragú, penne al pesto di rucola e noci, risotto radichio e taleggio and filetto di merluzzo all’isolana. And it wouldn’t be an official welcome lunch without the house red and white wine, would it? Both very nice…and even nicer that we had to walk off lunch to get back to the flat.

Across the street from the restaurant was the Church of St. Peter and St. Andrew. We stepped inside after lunch and said a prayer of thanksgiving – for good travel, for good friends, and life in general. We are truly blessed.

We have taken short naps before heading for local wine tasting followed by dinner where we can watch the sun set over the Tuscan hills.  More tomorrow because I intend to unplug for the remainder of today!
Buona notte!

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Italy, Travel, Trequanda, Tuscany, Vacation2016

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4 Countries and 1200+ KM

04 Monday Jul 2016

It has been a very, very long day.  And but for one not so bright moment, a fun one.  But first I need to go back to yesterday’s adventure and bring you up to date.

An uneventful drive from Trondheim to Oslo, other than watching a driver ahead of us fall asleep at the wheel and cross into oncoming lanes of travel.  Fortunately there was no other traffic, and he was able to manuever back to the correct side of the road where he pulled over.  We all gave him very stern looks as we passed by.  We took a different route down and got to wind alongside a river most of the way.  It reminded me very much of the Cold River in Vermont in the summer. We passed several fishermen out in the middle casting their lines and waiting for bites. 

We didn’t see any deer or moose along the way, but we stopped at the moose statue for a quick photo.  The jellybean in Millenial Park Chicago has nothing on this moose!

We arrived in Oslo in plenty of time, and got queued up to enter the ferry.  Over 700 cars, motorcycles and their passengers, along with the non-vehicle passengers.  Very much a mini-cruise ship with all sorts of shops, restaurants and entertainment. We got to our cabins, dropped off our bags and had a bit of lunch in the main dining room.  My other half and I ventured to the 15th deck Observation Lounge to enjoy the views of Oslo Fjord and open sea once we left the fjord.  Stunning views down the fjord of Norway and Sweden. Dinner was late at the buffet as Germany vs Italy soccer match was going on, and all other restaurants were full or closed.  Good selection of foods, and pretty tasty, too. 

A beautiful sunset, first we have seen since leaving Georgia.

I was awake this morning around 5AM and glimpsed outside without letting too much light in – didn’t want to disturb beauty sleep for others! Got to see bits of Denmark as got closer to the end of our voyage. We were up and in the car by 9:30AM, and luckily one of the first cars off the ship. A great start to the day, or so you would think, right??

We stopped for gas, coffee and croissants before hitting the Autobahn.  Have to say my first experience on the Autobahn was not what I expected.  There were some incredible stretches where we really got to feel the open road (at roughly 200KM/HR, give or take…Mom, no need to do the conversion to MPH!).  For the most part, though, we were stuck in long lines of traffic due to an accident and what appeared to be a test for local emergency services.  Scenery was nice, but due to the trees along both sides of the road it was hard to see much. We skirted Frankfurt, Nürnberg and Munich. 

Somewhere before Munich we stopped for gas and a quick snack/WC break. Two exits further down the road my other half realizes he no longer has his cell phone…quick search of the car while figuring out how to turn around and head back to the rest area to see if it may have been found and turned in. A backup due to a lane mergemade the return trip abut 45 minutes. No phone had been turned in, and we couldn’t locate it anywhere.  A quick call to Verizon to suspend coverage for the missing phone and we were back on the road toward Italy. 

We passed field after field of hops as we neared Munich, and that was fun to see.  Wish we could have had the beer to go with it, though!

We saw our first sign for Verona around 10PM, while still officially in Germany.  We soon crossed into Austria where we detoured through part of Innsbruck due to road construction.

We crosed into Italy about 11:30PM, and arrived at our hotel at about 1:30AM.  Italy was beautiful at night…all the castles and churches in the little towns were lit up, and there were so, so many stars in the sky. Unfortunately I couldn’t get pictures this late at night from a moving vehicle, but I am hoping tomorrow will bring plenty of opportunity for photos on our drive to Tuscany.

Calling it a night as the alarm is going off sooner rather than later, and we will be on the road in just over 5 hours.  I don’t want to sleep through much of tomorrow’s drive!

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Autobahn, ColorLine, Europe, Germany, Italy, Norway, Travel, Vacation2016

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Farewell, Norway. Until Next Time…

02 Saturday Jul 2016

Posted by andreapw in Europe, Norway, Travel, Vacation2016

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So, so much to share from today, I almost dont know where to start. And even if I did, the current WiFi connection is horrible and aggravating. (Darn international waters!) 

Suffice to say today was beyond our expectations, we are having a wonderful adventure to Kiel, Germany where we will land at approximately 10AM tomorrow.  

For those curious minded, there is apparently a YouTube video of where we are spending today. I havent seen it yet, so I cannot comment on accuracy. Search Color Line Oslo to Kiel ferry…

A full update with lots of pictures will be shared tomorrow. One highlight of today…we got to see the sun set!

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Last day in Trondheim

01 Friday Jul 2016

Today was unplanned fun. Started the day in town shopping for Norwegian handicrafts and gifts at Husfliden. Really wanted to buy more woolen items, but space is limited this trip. So many gorgeous textiles and possibilities.  Enough reason for a return trip – as if we needed another reason! While I shopped the boys went to the office to print travel docs. Of course, I was done before they returned, so I explored two other stores and found more treasures.  Christmas will have a definite theme this year…sorry not sorry, family! Finally met up with the boys – walked out of a store, loooked left across the street and saw my other half with arms waving above his head.  No chance of missing them, fortunately. If I’d stayed any longer and wandered into any more stores, I might have needed to buy a suitcase, too.

A quick stop at home, then headed to Sverresborg Trondelag Folk Museum to walk around and get a bite to eat for lunch. Unfortunately the museum was closed for the day as there was a concert this evening. We were able to get the last remaining, unreserved table for a bite to eat at the tavern. We sat outside for a bit then headed upstairs to our table. We got to hear snippets of sound check by none other than Elton John! The concert crowd looked much the same here as it does in the states. 

Trondelag is an outdoor museum with over 80 buildings, some dating back to 1100 and the Viking days. It is built around King Sverre’s medieval castle.  There is an old stave church, an old fort and an upper-class home from the 1700’s.  This will definitely be on our “to do” list on our next visit.

Buffet was delicious – poached salmon, pork loin, roasted squash, and potatoes.  We also got to try a traditional Norwegian dish, rømmegrøt, or sour cream porridge.  It is served on holidays and special occasions…drizzled with butter and cinnamon sugar, and eaten with cured meats. I remembered to take a picture of it before I dug in. Quite yummy! Between the rømmegrøt, salmon and bread, I think I ate half a  stick of butter.  My hips may not appreciate it, but my taste buds sure did.  I’m not overly worried – I will walk it off soon enough.  

Home now, packing for tomorrow’s early departure.  We leave at 5AM to arrive in Oslo in time for the ferry to Kiel, Germany. Then on to Italy!

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Norway, Travel, Vacation2016

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Small Fjord tour

30 Thursday Jun 2016

We were up much earlier today – thanks to setting an alarm last night so we could get the day started before the morning had completely departed. And, I suppose, a bit of practice for Saturday morning when we need to leave at 5AM to catch the Kiel Ferry from Oslo.

Today we drove south toward the lower part of Trondheim Fjord and then followed it north back into town. This fjord is more inland so does not have the steep mountains and drop offs as the fjords in the west.  Next visit we will explore that area.  It was difficult to fully capture the scenery today, partially due to the weather being overcast, and also the windy road.  Just as I got ready to snap a photo the road turned away from the fjord, or trees would obscure the view. It was very pretty and bucolic. The houses were a bit larger, and the views must be incredible for those on top of the hills. We passed several more farms, and saw several herds of cows, a few horses and sheep. Watching the breeze blow through the grain in the fields coupled with the twisting road made for a very relaxing ride.

We watched the ferry heading out, and a large cruise ship coming up the fjord. As we arrived in town another ferry was at the dock ready to take on cars and passengers.

We next ventured to Trondheim Trag (mall) for a frozen yogurt.  The salesclerk was very helpful and friendly (and the daughter of our hosts). It was exactly what we needed and got the blood flowing again.  

From there we went to another trag closer to home to look for gifts to bring home. I didn’t find quite what I was looking for, but boy, oh boy, if I was still an avid knitter, could I have done some damage! Beautiful yarns and patterns…sigh. I did consider buying a small “project” for my mother, but decided against it – for now. A trip to the grocery store was our final stop for the day where we stocked up on a few items we wanted to bring home.  Easier to buy them here and carry them with us than having to find a grocery in Oslo at the end of our trip. 
Some random photos of town, and as promised the emergency exit sign that makes my other half giggle.

He always seems to be in such a hurry! 

A wonderful dinner of salmon, potatoes, carrots, green beans and cucumbers.  (I am not good at remembering to take pictures of food before we dig in.  Maybe once we hit Italy…) We have certainly gotten our fill of seafood this week, and enjoyed every bite. We relaxed a bit and enjoyed the evening sun, although the wind was blowing so it was a tad chilly. A neighbor came with a pallet of firewood, and the guys unloaded and stacked it.  Not something a Sri Lankan learns in childhood, that’s for sure! Luna looked on to make sure it was done properly…and look for her new chew toy, perhaps.

Tomorrow will likely be another quiet day.  We will need to pack and load the car in the evening, as well as get to bed much earlier than we have been.  The second half of our adventure begins on Saturday!

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Norway, Travel, Vacation2016

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Trondheim – Day 3

29 Wednesday Jun 2016

Vacation hours were in full force again today…we awoke much later than planned (no comment on what exact time it was, other than to say I now have actual proof someone else snores as much as I allegedly do!).  First stop was to the Norwegian Olympic Training Center for ski jumping and cross country skiing.  We lucked into watching a practice ski jump session. So much fun! Wish I’d known the names of the jumpers so I knew who to cheer for in the next winter Olympics.

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A quick visit to the University to see Best Man’s office and find the best ever invention…the robotic lawn mower. Um, seriously, do they sell these in the US?  I have found the ultimate Christmas gift for my other half if they do! Although I will put Bob the Gardner out of work if I indulge in it.  I obviously need to mull this over…

From there we went to the Kristiansen Festning (Trondheim fort) which was instrumental in the 30 Year War between Sweden and Norway, and also was a German stronghold in WW2.

The above photo is of “monk island” – the Norwegian Alcatraz.

Next stop of the day was bittersweet and made me feel Dad was “hovering near.” We went to Dora I, an integral part of the German submarine force in WW2. We couldn’t get close to the actual sea level entries, but the historical information posted in the area and sheer size of the place gave a hauntingly good picture of its use and importance in the war.  Being a submariner’s daughter, this was a very poignant stop. I could only imagine my father’s reaction to visiting it (if he hadn’t already during his visit to Norway in 1956-57 as a student at the Naval Academy), or knowing his daughter was visiting it. I am learning my knowledge of WW2 history is seriously lacking as what we were taught in school in the US was very watered down up until the our involvement via Pearl Harbor. I am now a sponge when it comes to what was happening in the rest of the world.

We then headed back into town to purhase shrimp, bread and mayonaisse for a traditional Norwegian meal.  If I had a seafood market even close to the caliber of this one I might consider giving up beef! (Mind you I said consider it, not that I actually would!) A wonderful meal shared with local friends who made the evening extra special and memorable.

And now it is past my bedtime as we are getting up early to explore the fjords tomorrow.

Oh, but one last photo – the very dapper man to show where the crosswalk is.  It was just today we noticed how dashing and proper looking he is in his  hat!  I will post a photo soon of the exit sign which never fails to bring a giggle to my other half.

Posted by andreapw | Filed under Europe, Norway, Travel, Vacation2016

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Recent Posts

  • 2020…the Year of Limited Adventure
  • A Little Fall of Rain…
  • Exploring Old San Juan
  • We were in Old San Juan…and the room where it happened
  • Island Fever, Puerto Rican style

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